As Matthew and I travelled along the M4 motorway towards LeShuttle, our excitement grew for the carp fishing trip that awaited us in France. At the terminal, we drove the van onto the train and remained inside as it journeyed beneath the English Channel. The crossing took about 35 minutes from platform to platform, an incredible feat of modern engineering.
When the shutters finally opened in Coquelles, near Calais, we drove off the train and continued our journey south. Our destination was Pau, in southwest France, roughly a 15-hour drive. We spent the night at a local hotel before beginning the next leg of our fishing adventure.
Along the way, the scenery transformed dramatically, from the chalky plains of the north to the rolling vineyards of the Loire Valley. One unforgettable sight was a massive chair standing proudly on a roundabout in Hagetmau, a quirky and charming emblem of rural France.
As we approached Varennes-sur-Loire, the road carried us across the Pont de Varennes-Montsoreau, a steel bridge spanning the Loire. Locals often refer to it as the Montsoreau Bridge, as when crossing, one catches only a glimpse of Varennes but a breathtaking view of Montsoreau and its riverscape. Driving across, the close-knit steel trusses gave me a slight sense of claustrophobia, yet the beauty beyond the metal framework made it entirely worthwhile.
We finally arrived at Iktus Béarn, just a few miles from the city of Pau. The weather was beautiful, a perfect start to our fishing expedition.
Nestled in the Béarn region of southwestern France, Iktus Béarn spans approximately 150 acres, featuring several private lakes dedicated to carp, sturgeon, and catfish. The site offers well-appointed gîtes, safari tents, and chalets for anglers wishing to stay right on the water.
When we reached Swim Number 6, the deepest spot on the entire lake, we were amazed by the size and comfort of our safari tent. It was spacious, well-equipped, and ideally located for long sessions by the water.
After unpacking, Matt headed out on the electric boat equipped with a sonar fish finder to survey the lake. He mapped out its depth, bottom contours, underwater structures, shelves, seeking the deeper holes and hard patches where carp are known to feed.
Once our rods were set, it didn’t take long before one of the lines screamed off around 8:30 p.m. It was Matt’s turn to take the rod and playing a fish in complete darkness is never easy!
At last, we landed our first French carp safely in the net: a beautiful common carp weighing 33 lbs on the nose. Matt gently released it back into the water, watching it glided into the dark depths.
Moments later, another bite alarm went off, echoing through the still night. l was quick to react and soon landed another fish, a magnificent 33 lbs 12 oz mirror carp. A fantastic start to the trip!
As dawn broke, we were greeted by an incredible sight, a towering mountain rising behind the forest in front of us. What a view from our swim! I took the boat out to explore one of the lake’s far corners, about 230 yards (around 40 wraps) away, where a large tree hung low over the water. I checked the depth and structure, then baited the area with a mix of boilies, pellets, and sweetcorn before lowering a 5oz gripper lead with a pop-up bait rig. As I returned just in time for breakfast, my kettle’s whistle calling me back to our shore.
As the sun sank below the horizon that evening, the silhouette of Pic du Midi d’Ossau (9,461 ft) stood tall against the sky, visible from our swim in Laroin. As darkness fell, I switched my bite alarms to night mode, their soft green glow piercing the dusk.
Around midnight, one of my rods rattled — fish on! Matt struck and landed his second common carp, weighing 46 lbs 12 oz. Four hours later, another reel screamed off, jolting us awake. Without even tying my laces, I slipped on my Crocs and sprinted to the rods. After a hard-fought battle in the darkness, l landed a true heavyweight: a 51 lbs 4 oz mirror carp. I cradled it gently, admired its beauty, and released it back into the water where it belonged.
Hours after the sunrise, two French military helicopters thundered overhead, flying low across the lake, followed by a Falcon jet screaming past. The air shook with immense force! There are a couple of military airbases nearby — one belonging to the 5th Combat Helicopter Regiment in Uzein, about six miles away, and another northwest of Pau in the same region.
It remained quiet for most of the next day until around 4:30 p.m, when I was half-asleep on my bedchair, Matt suddenly dashed toward one of his rods and struck into a fish. It felt heavy, offering solid resistance all the way in. Another monster — 54 lbs exactly! Matt’s grin said it all.
Later that evening, as we set up the firepit, I spotted something swimming near the surface — a beaver! It was my first time seeing one, and it turned out to be a Eurasian beaver, once nearly extinct in France. After a long, hot day, I finally decided to take a shower. We hired bikes to get there more quickly, it would have been a 30-minute walk otherwise.
As Matt checked the right side of the swim, he suddenly spotted a massive toad. When I came over, I was astonished by its size, a spiny toad, named for its rough, warty skin.
At 12:45 a.m., l landed another mirror carp, this one 35 lbs 6 oz.
“No more bites, please… at least until 7 a.m.!” I joked.
But luck had other plans. At 1:15 a.m., another reel screamed off like an express train. After a tough fight, Matt landed a colossal 54 lbs 4 oz mirror carp. Congratulations to Matt for yet another stunning catch.
Soon after, a violent storm swept through wind howling, rain pounding on the canvas, and leaves thrashing overhead. It continued until late evening. Around 11:30 p.m, I finally caught a common carp weighing 25 lbs 6 oz — not the monster I’d hoped for, but a strong fighter to the end.
The next morning, I rode to the cafeteria and saw the storm’s aftermath — fallen trees and broken branches everywhere. Thankfully, none had landed on our tent. One large branch had fallen just inches from my van….What a very lucky escape!
Then, another sudden rattled from the bobbin and a powerful pull.
I shouted, “Hey! The bobbin dropped….. FISHHH ON!”
Matt sprinted over, grabbed the rod, and yelled, “Let’s go!” The rod bent double, the drag screaming as it felt ages to retrieve the mystery fish in.
Boom! Landed safely — another mirror carp, an incredible 54 lbs 7 oz.
He released it gently, watching it disappear back into the depths.
What a week it has been! This trip presented an entirely different challenge compared to our previous fishing adventures in France and the UK. We landed several stunning fish, a several of 30s, a 40s, and an incredible four mirror carp over 50 pounds.
The weather was unpredictable as if all four seasons visited in a single week but nothing could dampen our success.
Today marks our final day here, and the conditions couldn’t be better for packing up and loading the van. As we began our journey home, we couldn’t help but notice the striking contrast between southern and northern France, not only in the landscape but in the culture and pace of life.
Truly exceptional scenery and an unforgettable experience.
